Do your windows resemble a shower door?

Here at LotPro.com, you can tell when it’s winter (other than the temperature, of course). Other then where the wipers run, the car and truck windows are covered by a thin (or thick) film of salt, grime and gunk. Even the occasional spring rains do little to wash this off.

After you wash your car

Washing your car is only the first step. Now that you have the outside layer washed off, it’s time to finish the job. First, inspect the washer fluid reservoir under the hood and the wiper blades. Fill the fluid reservoir, then wash the windshield and look for streaks. Even if there aren’t any visible streaks, if the wiper blades are over a year old, replace them – especially if they’ve been through a winter like the last one. In fact, it’s a better idea to replace the entire wiper blade assembly. That way, you’ll be sure that the blades will have a strong, even contact over the entire windshield.

Once you’re finished, fill a pail with water and get a soft real or synthetic chamois. Soak the chamois, rinse and squeeze it, then proceed to clean the inside glass of each window. You read it correctly – water is the best thing with which to clean windows. Even if you have to do each one two or three times, water doesn’t streak like glass cleaner and it doesn’t leave a residue.

When you’re finished

Once you have completed your cleaning (don’t forget your glass sunroof if you have one), you might want to consider coating at least the windshield with a layer of rain-x. A number of us at LotPro.com have used Rain-X in the past and found that it is very effective, especially at expressway speeds, in keeping rain off your windshield without the use of wipers. Putting it on in the spring makes it especially easy to scrape off early morning frost.

The Bottom Line

Here at LotPro.com, we want you to drive safely this spring and summer – and what better way to do that when you can actually see out your windows!

When and where to do the inspection

It’s best to inspect your new car in the daylight where you can readily see any imperfections in the paint or any scratches or body damage. If you plan to pick up your car at night or in inclement weather, have your salesperson pull it inside so that you can take your time as well as easily inspect your car.

What to look for

1.    Make sure that the vehicle exterior was washed as well as cleaned thoroughly on the inside.2.    Check your paperwork and the Monroney label against the options on the car. Make sure that they all match.
3.    Inspect the interior for any loose trim. Make sure all surfaces are clean and that there isn’t any damage to the fabric, carpeting, headliner or seats.
4.    While you’re in the car, check to make sure that the lights, wipers, windows, turn signals and door handles are working properly.
5.    The odometer should show low miles unless the vehicle was dealer traded.
6.    Inspect the exterior for any dents or scratches. Look for paint defects and damaged trim, such as rearview mirror covers and head or taillight bezels.

Once you have inspected the vehicle, take it for a test drive with the salesperson. If you notice that something isn’t right, ask for an explanation. Do all this before you sign any paperwork.

If there are any discrepancies and you and the dealer come to an agreement, make sure that you get it in writing.

Window etching

With car manufacturers plastering the vehicle identification number (VIN) all over the car (engine, hood, instrument panel, bumpers, fire wall) why would putting it on the windows matter? If it’s dark, a thief wouldn’t see them anyway.

Rust proofing

Back in the 1970’s, new cars, especially in Michigan with all the salt on the roads, seemed to rust out in 5 years or less – right before our very eyes. Back then, rust proofing was a big business. Sometimes it worked well and sometimes the cars would rust where the technician drilled into the body to insert the spray wand applicator!
With the current widespread use of galvanized body panels and advanced vehicle engineering, it just isn’t necessary anymore. Check your vehicle warranty for the rust through time frame. In many cases, having the vehicle rust proofed by an outside company will actually void the warranty.

Paint protection

While this may have some merit, why pay the dealer $200-$400 to have it done? You can buy the same type of Teflon based wax for as little as $8 (DuPont Ultra Wax) at many auto parts stores and, for as little as $30, an electric polisher. It will cost you 1/5 as much and you have a polisher you can use for years.

Fabric Protection

Dealers charge as much as $250 for this spray on protection for your car’s interior. Instead, buy a can of Scotchgard (about $15) and do it yourself. Just remember that if you do spill something and wipe it off, you need to re-apply Scotchgard to the area.

The Bottom Line

You can save yourself hundreds of dollars in car payments by avoiding these unnecessary dealer add-ons. If you have any more questions regarding financing or payment information, visit our web site at www.lotpro.com.

What does it mean?

The check engine light is part of your cars on board diagnostic system (OBD for short). It’s designed to let you know if something is not right with what seem like a gazillion systems that your cars computer constantly monitors. Although it shouldn’t be ignored, there are a number of things that you can do for peace of mind before you take it to a repair shop to have it checked out (yes, you eventually will need to do that).

“Should I pull over to the side of the road and call a cab?”

No, not necessarily. If your engine is running roughly then you should either pull over and park, or proceed to the nearest repair shop as soon as possible. A rough engine could mean you need major repairs, and continued driving could cause further damage. If everything seems normal, continue driving until you find a convenient spot to safely leave the road then park your car and…

Check your gas cap.

Really. Most vehicle fuel systems are “closed” and, therefore, if you forget to either tighten, or even screw on, your gas cap, it will trip a sensor and – bingo! – on comes the blasted light. Once you do this, many times the system will reset itself in a matter of miles and the light will turn off.

Check under the hood for moisture

Water has a wonderful way of shorting things out. With all the wires and sensors located in the engine compartment, it can cause havoc with all the electronic goodies located there.

Have it checked out

If the light remains on, take your car to a dealer or repair shop, where they can diagnose the problem. Your cars computer not only tells you when there is a problem, it will also record the problem in its innards (called a fault code). Repair shops have machines that can read and diagnose these codes and let you know what needs to be done to correct the problem. If the light goes out, mention it to your mechanic when your have your can in for an oil change. They can retrieve the information and let you know just what happened, so you can avoid the problem in the future.

Trust your owners manual

The owners manual that came with your car tells you how often to change your oil as well as well as the type of oil that should be used. Here is an example from the Mazda3 Owners Manual:

“Recommended Oil Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil.”

What does this tell us?

Now we know the manufacturer recommends that we change the oil every 5 months or 5,000 miles with SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers specification) 5W-20 oil (the lower the first number, the more easily it flows at low temperatures while the second number is its flow rate at high temperatures).

Types of oils

Conventional Oil – oil that comes from the refining of crude oil. This type of oil is the least expensive.

Full Synthetic Oil – usually produced from a chemical compound called PAO (polyalphaolefins), synthetic oils have a more uniform chemical structure that is better at preventing wear and remaining viscous (the ability to flow) over a wider temperature range. Synthetic oil is considerably more expensive than conventional oil.

Synthetic Blend – a combination of conventional and synthetic oil. Most blends are not true synthetic oils since they are usually based on something other than PAO.

The Bottom Line

If you follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, not only will your warranty be valid, your car will last longer and you will avoid expensive engine repairs in the future.